Forgotten River Towns Tour
Send this Article to a FriendWhen you get back to US 98, turn left toward Apalachicola. The road turns into a five-mile long bridge that takes you over East Bay and the mouth of the Apalachicola River. Riding over this bridge at sundown is an experience that shouldn't be missed. Just before the bridge ends, it rises suddenly and the rider gets a dramatic view of the old town of Apalachicola.
Apalachicola is a real jewel. This city was one of the largest and busiest ports on the Gulf in the early and mid 19th century. At one time the waterfront was lined with nearly a quarter mile of two story brick warehouses. Bust followed boom and this town went into a hibernation that lasted for decades.
When I first saw this town in the early 70's, it was like going back in time. Developers discovered Apalachicola in the 90's but so far it's been spared from the usual fate of similar tourist towns. It looks much as it did fifty years ago except for all the shops and restaurants. Spend some time riding around the downtown area and the old neighborhoods that lay south of US 98.
As you ride down off the bridge, the first thing you see is the Gibson Inn. This 100-year-old hotel has been completely restored and is the focal point of the city. Do not leave town without stopping. On weekends it's a very popular spot for motorcyclists. Sit on the wide, shaded porch and have your favorite beverage from the excellent bar in the lobby.
If you're hungry for first class food, Apalachicola has many fine restaurants. Try Tamara's, the Owl Cafe, the Veranda, Boss Oyster, Avenue Sea, and many other great places to eat. If I sound like a Chamber of Commerce brochure, forgive me; it's only because I really like this town.
When you've had time to completely explore Apalachicola, head back east over the bridge for the final segment of this ride. Eat your fill and gas up in town because there's very little civilization for the rest of trip. Go through Eastpoint and turn north on State Road 65. The first ten miles or so skirts around the upper reaches of East Bay. Have your camera ready as every turn and bridge offers a new view of the rivers and marshes. You should see Bald Eagles, ospreys and many varieties of wading birds. After a time, 65 turns north and enters the Apalachicola National Forest. This road is usually deserted and straight as an arrow. Many riders will be sorely tempted to really open it up on this stretch, but use caution. There are many deer and other large critters that roam the forest around here and they don't pay much attention to how fast you're traveling. Nothing screws up a good ride like colliding with Bambi at 70+ miles an hour.
When you get to the little town of Sumatra, take a left on County Road 379 and continue north. Keep an eye open for clusters of yellow trumpet shaped plants that grow in the wetter portions of the roadside. These are the infamous carnivorous Pitcher Plants. They live by capturing insects in their water filled pitchers and digesting them. They grow all over and are usually easy to spot. Take the time to appreciate the forest you're zooming through. This place is one of the biggest expanses of longleaf pines left in the state and is also the home of the endangered Red Cockaded Woodpecker. There's lots of good dirt roads to explore but get a forest map if you really want to stray far off the paved road.
When you get to the intersection of 379 and Highway 12, you've come to the end of the Byway. If you're going back to Tallahassee, turn north on 12 until you get to Bristol and State Road 20. Then turn east on 20 and stay on it until you get to Tallahassee. If it was up to me, I'd head back to Apalachicola and stay a couple of days.
The Byway is a good ride no matter what time of year. Spring and fall are best, but winters here are usually mild and pleasant for riding. Summers are hot as hell but that shouldn't deter you. There's plenty of places to stop and cool off. Don't miss this ride. It's the perfect combination of coast and forest, boondocks and civilization. You won't regret it.
